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Thank you for visiting Siebert Optics! Serving Large Observatories and the Amateur Astronomy Community alike. |
200 Short Johnson Road |
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Products:
Eyepieces From .965" / 1.25" / 2.0" / 2.7" / 3.0" / 4.0" / 4.3"
BT70 RA88 / Miyauchi eyepieces
Advanced Barlow
Lenses including: Modular and 4 element Telecentric magnification
multipliers
1.25" and 2" Advanced Binoviewers Starting FMC units at $399
Binoviewer
OCA's and Accessories
Binoviewer Alignment and Supercharge Services
Adapters - Meade Scopes and ETX
Large
and Small Non Illuminated and Illuminated Cross haired eyepieces.
Large and Small Binocular Cleaning and
Alignment services including Miyauchi Starting at
$49
Call or Email for details.
Special binoviewer services and products you cant get anywhere else ICP's Image Correction Prisms for Newts
Observers Hood - light blocking
Astrotech and William's Optics Focuser Services
Ladies Corner Astronomy Themed Fleece Blanket
Non-Astronomy Items
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2" Elite Binoviewer Diopter Instructions
Proper use of the 2" diopters: In the photograph above you will see a set of 2" units with double diopters. In the eyepiece sockets are the zero profile self-centering adapters. These adapters eliminate any off-axis eyepieces that normal step down adapters with thumb holddowns would create. Notice the eyepieces are marked L and R. We will use this as a point of reference. The diopters should always be rotated to their lowest position and only the eyepiece that needs to be raised should be dialed up. This simplifies their use tremendously. Now keep in mind that some eyepieces do not have perfect optical centers and at higher power may appear slightly out of collimation when the eyepieces are rotated at different orientations. Imagine there are two circles with a white dot slightly off center. If you rotate those two dots to their lowest point your eyepiece optical center will then be aligned. But if one is rotated so that the dot is slightly above center and the other is slightly below center the different between the two combined can cause a slight out of collimation (possibly enough to see). So after both diopters are rotated clockwise to their lowest position and your step-downs and eyepieces are in place, you are now ready to use your diopters. Focus the main focuser on your scope. The object is to determine which eyepiece is focusing in further (left or right?) Simple enough. Once you focus the eyepiece that requires the most intravel the other eyepiece will need to be dialed out slightly. EX. You focus out until you notice the left eyepiece is sharp. If you focus out a little further you will notice the right eyepiece gets sharp. Focus back in until the left gets sharp again. It will be the right side that needs to be dialed out slightly with the diopter. In the illustration above all four holddowns on both sides have been snugged down but are not overly tight. The eyepieces and step-downs are in place and the compression rings are rotated clockwise for proper self-centering. Then you loosen the diopter thumb holddowns on the side you are going to adjust. Twisting rotate the diopter. In this case the right focused in the most. So the left needs to be dialed out slightly. After rotating until sharply focused then .....
tighten your holddowns. You will notice that the L is now in a different position. If your eyepieces have a good optical center it should not matter. But if you find that you do not get as comfortable a collimation simply ........ rotate the eyepiece back. Now you might say but my eyepieces are not marked. A whiteout pen in a discreet location on the eyepiece will be all that is necessary to mark your eyepiece. Remember that if rotating the eyepiece corrects the problem it will be the difference in the eyepiece optical centers and not the binoviewers themselves. Otherwise rotating the eyepiece would not change a thing. Eyepiece that are purchased from me with binoviewers are always marked for their optimal alignment. Many have suggested they could not see any difference regardless of how the eyepiece(s) was rotated. But this is done for those who are the most sensitive to minute collimation errors and some can completely ignore the marks. So you may feel as though the above instructions represent an oversimplification of diopter use, but for the few who have a slightly harder time merging images it can make all the difference in the world. If you have standard step-downs with thumb holddowns. Always align the holddowns straight up so that the eyepieces are both nudged in the same direction. Below is a little more information for those who may eyepieces any collimation issues. Notice in the above picture the delrin self-centering inserts. These are of similar design to the Tak Twin-View and the Denkmeier binos. As the outer ring is rotated clockwise it pushes down on the insert. The inserts are pushed down onto a taper that makes the diameter of the ring smaller as it is screwed down. This method works quite well. It only suffers from one problem. Sometimes the eyepieces may not be seated all the way in and may get cocked slightly. So make sure that the eyepieces are seated all the way in with gentle pressure as the compression ring is rotated and tightened. Notice that the compression ring insert has a gap in it that are toward the front of the bino in the illustration above. The ring's gap is usually toward the front. But it can rotate around over a period of time as they are repeatedly loosened and tightened. This is usually not something that needs to be worried about, but if a collimation issue is noticed rotate the gap in the compression ring to the forward position as in this illustration.
So if you ever have a problem. You may want to refer to this page for the following checklist.
If you have any questions please email or call me at 1-919-553-3980. I will be glad to walk you through and answer any of your questions.
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